🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.